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Nestled just south of the Tropic of Capricorn is a rocky outcropping reachable by a part dirt, part tarmac road. This is the twin towns of Agnes Water and Seventeen Seventy. The former is a surfers town - the beach ringed by backpacker accommodation and motels. The latter, some seven kilometres away, is a peninsula of a large half moon bay. Arriving late, we are unable for the first time to find a room for the night. The caravan park on the outskirts of town is also jam packed - school holidays. We're tired and in need of rest and decide to drive out the other end of town in search of fluffy pillows and a 4.5 tog duvet... The road meanders a while but then stops abruptly in a small national park - Round Hill Head. The sea and beaches are both sides of the thin headland and a short moonlit stroll takes us around the hill to a small lighthouse via a eucalypt forest. Returning to the town, still in search of accommodation, we are treated to the sight of kangaroos on the road and on the lawns of the houses. We find a good meal but still no place to rest. So we return to Round Hill Head, and here the ability to sleep in the back of the Nissan Patrol without anyone being the wiser comes into its own. We fall asleep to the sound of the waves breaking on the beach below and awaken to the orange glow of the morning sun. Its better than any B&B you can imagine.
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