We head for Cooktown via the Battlecamp track - a dirt road which not only
features potholes, wandering cattle and kangaroos, but often croc infested
creeks and steep slippery slopes. It also has spectacular scenery with
rainforests clad beaches visible from time to time and eucalyptus lined
billabongs.
A steady stream of hire cars and and trial bikers passes us on the first leg
- the tourists have caught up
with
us! That is until we start crossing rivers, the first of which is
surrounded by the rusting wrecks of foolhardy two wheel drive cars.
The road gets bumpier, steeper and frequently features sheer drops. Its here
that Isobel discovers the religious significance of the grab-bar on the
dashboard - frequent references to God and his son are made, peppered with the
odd unladylike expletive.
A
welcome break and lunch awaits us at the Lions Den pub. Dating back to 1875,
this historical treasure house features a graffiti lined bar, and authentic paraphernalia
including foreign banknotes, foreign postcards and bras (presumably foreign)
hanging from the walls.
Shortly after this we hit tarmac again. This lasts around half a kilometre
before the dirt continues - its a mystery as to why they bothered. But
soon we reach the Development Road which is
paved
to Cooktown. The road takes us via the bizzare Black Mountains -
volcanically formed and consisting of a mountain of black algae covered
boulders.
Approaching sunset, we hit our destination, Cooktown,
and almost pass right through it...
Which would have been a shame, as we really quite liked its laid back charm.