To
reach Milford Sound there is a five hour (manic) each way drive via Te Anau.
By plane it takes 30 minutes. By plane we went.
Our pilot, Ian, a Duncan Goodhew lookalike, made sure we got a good look at
the numerous waterfalls that were in full flow due to the torrential rains.
Flying under low clouds which occasionally threatened to cut off our path
through the mountain passes, we circled Queenstown, flew low over the saddle of
two great peaks and followed the Tasman coast to the wide sea opening of one of
the south islands best known attractions.

Landing 'Hong Kong Style' (i.e. flying at a mountain then turning at the last
moment onto the landing strip), we arrive in Milford Sound a hundred metres from
the harbour.
From here we board a red line cruise ship and steam out into the tranquil
waters. Our captain provides a passing commentary - describing how the
'Sound' was formed. Glacial movements over thousands of years have carved a
valley which is over a thousand metres deep below the hull. Its incredibly quiet
on the water - bar the low pulse of the engines and the occasional seagull in
the distance.
From the air, the mountains had looked imposing, but the waterway seemed far
smaller than their purported 22km. Now we are at sea level, the size and
perspective are reversed - the water seems to go on for ever while the mountains
look more like, well, big hills.
Speaking to the Skipper, we discover that the Cunard liner QE2 has recently
visited and naturally dwarfed every other ship in the sound. However, when
viewed against the mountains this monster of a ship looked more like a small
speedboat, with two outside pools and a helicopter pad...
The
cruise circles a well worn (?) route through the waterway - passing a number of
spectacular falls and then a colony of fur seals who are so bored with all the
passing traffic they barely acknowledge our presence.
Back on board our little Cessna, we fly back to Queenstown in time for
sundowners by the lake - watching the tourist coaches load up for the five hour
return as we take off.
This truly is Flashpacking.
