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Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia, lies at the confluence of the Mekong River flowing from Laos and the Tonle Sap which reaches up to the old capital of Siam Reap. The city has a distinct French feel in parts with run down colonial buildings surrounding the traditional Khmer palaces and temples. We stay around the Tonle Sap riverfront most of the time - often frequenting the Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC) where Western food and cocktails are ladled out at Western prices - at least 10 times the local rate - reassuringly expensive... and they use mineral water to make their ice.
Motos by the way, are mopeds for hire which zig-zag like maniacs around the city - often on the wrong side of the road, and with scant (if any) regard for traffic signals, let alone oncoming traffic or passenger safety. That said, motos were our favoured mode of transport - and a hair raising experience it was most of the time. Motos wait around for you, run errands and cost around $10 per day with a driver.
The scars of war and the genocide of the '70s are still evident - but less prevalent than I expected. Occasionally you'll be asked for money by a passing land-mine victim or have a tune played by a passing blind man and cap in hand guide. More often however, the begging/hawking is done by kids - aged 6-14. To find out more about the Khmer Rouge's reign of terror we visit S21, an ex-school turned execution chamber. In addition, we visit the burial site of the victims of the S21 - the 'Killing Fields' of Tuol Sleng. We also pay a visit to a home for children sold into slavery. From Phnom Penh we head North by boat to Siem Reap (which literally means Siamese Defeated) to visit the ancient temples of Angkor. We return to Phnom Penh prior to heading for our Vietnam - visit a few must see sights including the Royal Palace -.and spend several hilarious nights in the company of Simon and Mark, Isobels neighbours from back home who we introduce to one of Cambodias' lesser known delicacies. |
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